I have to admit, before I visited Luxembourg, I had never heard of the “Bock” or the “Casemates” and I really wasn’t sure what to expect, but Alan, our hotel concierge at Parc Beaux Arts, (see our review!) highly suggested it, so we headed out wondering what we were going to experience. As we descended into the extensive web of caves, I immediately began to realize that the Bock and the Casemates had been a powerful fortress protecting the city of Luxembourg throughout the centuries.
The “Bock” is a promontory in the north-eastern corner of Luxembourg City’s old historical district. Archaeological evidence shows that this natural defensive area was probably used as early as antiquity and early medieval times by the Romans and Franks.
As a natural fortification, its rocky cliffs tower above the River Alzette and for this reason, Count Sigefroy, decided to purchase the Bock and build his castle and fortress defenses upon it in 963. In this way he could provide protection for his properties. There was probably some sort of castle structure on-site before he built, but there remains no confirmed physical trace of that earlier structure.
The town that grew up near the castle and its defenses became the city of Luxembourg. Luxembourg’s castle and defenses were attacked, rebuilt and reinforced many times as the armies of the Burgundians, Habsburgs, Spaniards, Prussians and French vied for victory over this strategic part of Europe, and its stronghold.
The first tunnels for the underground defenses below the old castle were dug out during the Spanish period in 1644. Extensions were made by the French engineer Vauban under King Louis XIV in 1684. From 1737 to 1746 the Austrians finally completed the extraordinary complex of underground passages.
The defensive caves accommodated 50 cannons and a garrison of 1,200 men. In addition, they had underground facilities for housing equipment and horses as well as workshops, kitchens, bakeries and slaughterhouses. These impressive facilities allowed the city defenders to hold out against the French for seven months during the French Revolution, gaining the Casemates the prestigious title of “best in the world apart from Gibraltar”
The defensive caves accommodated 50 cannons and a garrison of 1,200 men. In addition, they had underground facilities for housing equipment and horses as well as workshops, kitchens, bakeries and slaughterhouses. These impressive facilities allowed the city defenders to hold out against the French for seven months during the French Revolution, gaining the Casemates the prestigious title of “best in the world apart from Gibraltar”
Photo above of Casemate site-plan courtesy of Luxembourg City Tourist Office pamphlet.
The Treaty of London signed in 1867, finally ended hundreds of years of wars for rule over the strategically important Duchy of Luxembourg. The defenses were destroyed as demanded by the treaty. The vestiges of the Count’s Castle are on display in the archeological crypt of the Casemates.
The actual Casemate fortress cave system itself was impossible to completely demolish due to the number of cave tunnels that are actually underneath parts of the city itself, so access to many of the tunnels was simply blocked and left for later generations to re-open and explore.
In more recent times, the Casemates again proved their worth during WWII, when they were used as a bomb shelter for up 35,000 people. Since 1933, the Casemates have been open to the public and in 1994, the caves became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In more recent times, the Casemates again proved their worth during WWII, when they were used as a bomb shelter for up 35,000 people. Since 1933, the Casemates have been open to the public and in 1994, the caves became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As you wander through the dark, rock-hewn passages and peer out through the cannon holes and round cave openings with views across the valley far below, you can imagine soldiers perched beside their cannons warily watching from the same openings during those long ago wars and siege days.
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